Boom makeup skin#
HCA has the potential to regulate inflammatory skin disorders, as well as atopic dermatitis and photocarcinogenesis, according to some studies. Mushrooms are a rich source of hydroxycinnamic acid (HCA).
Advances in fields such as nanotechnology are also driving innovations in mushroom nutraceutical science and products. In the early 2000s, mushrooms hit the Western market for skincare applications (Image credit: Tom Mannion).In the early 2000s, mushrooms hit the Western market for skincare applications. Ganoderma lucidum, an oriental fungus with a long-history of medicinal use in China and Japan, has been used in anti-aging skincare products since the 1980s, starting with the Japanese brand Menard. While undergoing somewhat of a cultural renaissance in the beauty industry, mushrooms for skin health aren’t a new discovery. She will also be continuing to work at Central Saint Martins on a species of mold that produces food-safe and medicinal pigments. In her upcoming plans, she will be starting a five-month fellowship in the Netherlands at Maastricht’s Jan van Eyck Academie in collaboration with Central Saint Martins to develop an oil paint from one of the deep brown pigments she previously used to make sunscreen. To further her research, Adler visited Oaxaca, Mexico after her graduation to study pigmenting fungi. It is estimated that scientists have only discovered about 1% of the fungi on Earth, yet within that 1% Adler highlights a “wealth of research” into the potential applications and industrial importance of pigments extracted from fungi. The study of fungi – mycology – is a relatively new field. Growing awareness of these issues has increased the global demand for alternative renewable sources of color in the food, cosmetic and textile sectors,” flags Adler.įungi are an underexplored source of sustainable colorants that are non-toxic, biodegradable, light-fast and some even have cosmeceutical benefits, such as antioxidant and UV protection. “However, synthetic colorants are made from fossil fuels (a non-renewable resource) and some have been found to have harmful effects on both humans (as carcinogens) and the planet (as pollutants). The advent of synthetic colorants signaled a new wave of colorful possibilities, with hues and performance characteristics going well beyond that of colorants from plants, animals and minerals. “Color is a vital feature of life and as such, humans have been on a quest to harness the boldest and brightest colors for thousands of years, originally creating pigments from natural materials – such as clay and ash – until the discovery of synthetic colorants in the mid-19th century redefined our relationship with colorants,” says Adler. The resulting lipsticks, eyeshadows and tinted skin creams are the initial prototype versions of what may someday become commercialized products. Pigments from fungi – including mushrooms, lichen, yeast and mold – can be used as a renewable replacement for industrially produced dyes (Image credit: Tom Mannion).She collaborated with a cosmetic formulation chemist to bring the colors to life through beauty products. However, to illustrate their effectiveness and scope, Adler focused on using them creating make-up pigments in her and for her recent graduation project at Central Saint Martins in London, the UK. In theory, these colorants can be applied to almost any substance. This is propelling forward a new category for the industry – “mycocosmetics.”Īmong innovators making headlines this year, Jesse Adler is a self-proclaimed “mycological alchemist” who leveraged her background in chemistry and biomolecular science to develop a method of extracting pigments from fungi – including mushrooms, lichen, yeast and mold – that can be used as a renewable replacement for industrially produced dyes. The broad adaptability of mushroom extracts is bringing life to new applications, including fresh cosmetic colors to offset dependence on non-renewable colorants. Fungi-based ingredients have proliferated across a swathe of beauty formulations and are considered a prominent skincare trend for this year.
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